A winter weekend in Copenhagen
Think the Danish capital is only worth visiting in the summer? Think again.
While heading South for some much needed sun might sound like the only way to go, the Northern cities are worth a visit over the winter too. If you’re not afraid to bundle up - think your warmest parka and lined snow boots - Copenhagen in the winter holds much charm, especially if you go around Christmas. From our “Be a traveler, not a tourist” series, here’s a curated selection of addresses for a weekend in Copenhagen that will take you off of the Tik tok-beaten tracks.
Think cozy cafés, whimsical Christmas lights everywhere, and some of the best pastries I have ever tasted - coming from a French food lover, that’s saying a lot. Beyond the famous Scandinavian talent for impeccable design (which is unarguably part of the city’s charm), Copenhagen also holds solid claims as one of the world’s most innovative and climate-forward city, and it’s incredibly kids friendly - which as every parent knows too well, makes all the difference between making wonderful family memories, and a trip to hell and back.
A winter weekend guide to Copenhagen
FOOD
Where to eat
Let’s start with the most important part of your trip: FOOD. Because let’s be honest, we both know you ain’t visiting nothing with an empty stomach.
In the past few years, Copenhagen has earned its stars as a foodie’s destination, and it’s not for nothing. Home to the world-famous Noma, René Redzepi’s, sacred, best restaurant in the world five years in a row, the food scene in Copenhagen is exciting whatever your budget. Listing all the tempting options would be an impossible task, but here are a few of our favorites.
Torvehallerne is a bustling food court encased in a glass building, walking distance from the botanical gardens and the Rosenborg castle. Airy and lively, it’s the perfect place to sample the local specialty, the famous smorrebrods, open face sandwiches made from a dark bread - usually rye - topped with various food. Those from Hallernes were our personal favorite (they have several stores around the city, including one at Tivoli).
For some of the best pastries you’ve ever had, head to Vores Brod in Valby. A bit out of the tourist tracks, it’s well worth a detour for its otherworldly ‘snegle’, a buttery puff pastry topped with cream in different flavor. Make sure to try the cinnamon one! They also have great coffee and a small space to sit at the back. Another great spot for Danish pastries is Meyers Bageri, in the trendy area of Norrebro.
Gemyse in the heart of Tivoli was a very pleasant surprise, serving fresh and seasonal dishes that were ten notches above the classic amusement park food we expected to find. The Scandinavian decor - light wood, minimalist furniture and lots of plants - was also a pleasant surprise. If you can, sit in the lovely green house and enjoy Tivoli’s lights while you eat!
For a tasty brunch in the city, we loved Wulff & Konstali which delivers the perfect mix of healthy and comfort food. With its choice of little platters to mix and share, it’s also well-suited to those traveling with kids or friends.
Fancy restaurants might be nice, but there’s nothing that makes my heart sing like a great burger. Tommi’s burger joint, in the heart of the trendy Kødbyen - the up and coming Meatpacking district - delivers on every level: from the no-frills decor and the tattoed chef right down to the amazingly tasty burgers.
We were traveling with kids, so that obviously influenced our choice of restaurants. If you’re looking for fancier options and if you have good money to spend, you will find here a guide of fine dining restaurants in Copenhagen.
VISITS
What to do
Between fairytale castles, cozy shopping streets and forward thinking museums, there’s no shortage of things to do in Copenhagen. Once you’ve strolled around the charming but crowded Nyhavn, here’s a few ideas of things to do with or without kids that feel less touristy.
One thing we loved about Copenhagen is how easy it is to do varied activities suiting a wide range of tastes. From twirling in a carrousel in the whimsical Tivoli gardens to whizzing down an the top of an energy plant, we weren’t short of things to do even after a very full week. Traveling with kids? Fear not! Most activities in our list are kids friendly.
Because I feel I have piqued your curiosity, let’s start with CopenHill: set on the docks, this ultra-modern energy plant is one-of-a-kind: besides its striking architecture, it boasts an artificial ski slope on its rooftop! In the summer, you’ll go down on the grass (yes!), but in the winter, there’s a good chance you’ll find actual snow. If you’re not feeling sporty, there’s also a sledding course and a café to enjoy the panoramic views over the city. Access to the roof is free.
A more indoorsy experience, the Designmuseum Danmark is upholds the country’s reputation in terms of design. It’s a beautiful space offering interactive displays and thought provoking installations about the role of design in our daily lives that should also appeal to the kids.
Of the many castles in Copenhagen, the Rosenborg Slot is not the largest but certainly one of the most delightful. Its beautifully maintained interiors echo the graceful silhouette of the castle and house a stunning collection of precious artifacts from the Danish royal family, including which an astronomical clock, an automated musical (ask if it’s about to play, it’s lovely) and even a prank chair!
A few minutes walk from the Rosenborg Slot, you’ll find the Palmhuset, Copenhagen’s botanical garden. I LOVE botanical gardens and will never miss an opportunity to visit one; this impressive palm house was built in 1874 and it is as beautiful on the inside as it is from the outside. It’s also a welcome respite from the cold on a full day of visits! Do not miss the quaint little shop, set a bit apart, at the entrance of the park: it is the perfect place to find a charming souvenir or a handmade Christmas ornament (more about this below in “Where to shop”).
SHOPS
Where to shop
With an unmatched design culture, inviting independent stores and stunning Christmas displays, it’s hard to wander around Copenhagen without being tempted at every corner. Here’s a list of addresses where to shop intentionally.
Minimalism and mindful design are an intrinsic part of Danish culture when it comes to material things, and that is something to love. Rather than spending mindlessly on the main street or buying trinkets at the airport, head to these spots for really special finds.
Ilhum Bolighus is Copenhagen’s high end department store, and features the very best of Danish design. Beautiful selection and prices to match. Make your way to the bar on the rooftop to calm your nerves from reading those prices tags with a glass of bubbly - it will probably be more affordable than whatever had taken your fancy.
A heritage brand, Royal Copenhagen’s china is among the finest you will find. Around Christmas, the top floor of their flagship store on Amagertorv is home to a display of stunning tables styled in various themes. Entrance is free but it’s probably wise not to bring young kids, unless you want to have a heart attack when they start stomping around those 100 euros plates.
For more affordable (and less nerve-wrecking) shopping, head to Jægersborggade in Norrebro where you will find indie boutiques and artisan coffee roaster such as Perfectly Worn Vintage, ceramist Inge Vincents and Coffee Collective. The cool shops in this street are just too many to mention all, but whatever you do, make sure to stop at Camilla Plum Blandede landhandel - a one-of-its-kind store that sell organic seeds, plants, vegetables, spices, and around Christmas, an impressive collection of quirky glass ornaments.
If you’re on the hunt for the most special and extravagant Christmas ornaments, Hôtel d’Angleterre hosts a pop-up on its ground floor where you should find something to assuage your frenzy.
This list wouldn’t be complete without mentioning Ferm Living’s Brand House, a beautifully curated space that is home to their flagship store as well as their offices. Set in a historic building from 1770, it’s an immersive shopping experience that delivers the sense of calm, quality and aesthetics the iconic Danish brand has become known for. Even if you manage to walk out without buying anything (we dare you), it’s an inspiring space for any home decor lover.
If you go to Copenhagen and use this guide, please let us know in the comments how it went and feel free to share new addresses too!
Insider tip
How to properly bundle up for Nordic cold
From a practical standpoint, visiting a Nordic country in the winter means facing the kind of cold you want to come prepared for. When it comes to biting cold, layering is the way to go: breathable thermal layers under your clothes are a game changer. Natural fabrics such as wool and silk are the best options here, because they’re both warm and naturally moisture-wicking, but they can be pricey - there are some pretty good synthetic alternatives too. Don’t skimp on your extremities: warm hats, gloves and socks make all the difference at the end of the day, I promise. And make sure to pick waterproof parka and shoes, as there’s nothing worse than being cold and wet.